The traditional food in Ethiopia is spicy and delicious, lots of stews and curry-like sauces, all wrapped up in the spongy deliciousness of injera. If you haven't tried it before, get thee to an Ethiopian restaurant (I have recommendations if you need them). On my last day in Addis, I stopped by my grandmother's house to say good-bye, and was enlisted to make one piece of injera. People who are experienced with this can make the injera come out completely round on the griddle, but as you can see below, the edges of my piece were a little less smooth. Clearly not my forte.



My grandma made me promise that I'll have kids before she leaves this life. I agreed to that (she's got a good 20 years left by my estimate, so no harm there). However, we disagree on the number of kids. She had ten, so she thinks five is a reasonable request for me. I wasn't even sure how to respond to that one. I told her that I'm the second-oldest cousin, so she should be hounding my older cousin to get started instead of me. I don't think that tactic worked too well...

As I wrote before, Addis is a city that is becoming more developed every day. A lot of this effort is driven forward by Ethiopians returning from other parts of the world, and bringing with them businesses or ideas that they have observed being successful elsewhere. When I was in India, I saw a lot of businesses that bore a striking resemblance to businesses I had grown up with in the States, and I'm starting to see the same in Addis. For example, the current local rendition of Starbucks is Kaldi's coffee.



Apparently copyright laws are not in quite as full force here as they would be in the US…. Kaldi's is extremely popular, and was totally packed on the Saturday afternoon when we visited. It could actually be considered payback for Starbucks' lack of profit sharing for so long with the Ethiopian farmers that produced their coffee (they're doing better now, but the yearly revenue of Starbucks, one company, is $6.4 billion compared to the GDP of Ethiopia, an entire country, which is $74.9 billion, so clearly there is more to be done).

For those of you who have traveled to Hyderabad, remember the Olive Garden there? Well, there is an "Olives garden" here in Addis.



I haven't tried it yet, but if the imitation in India is any indication, I probably won't. I mean, why would I travel several thousand miles to eat in an Olive Garden?

I've only got a few more days left in Addis, and as with the other parts of my trip, I'm wondering why I didn't budget more time here. There is so much to see and do in this world and so little time. I'm going to have to figure out how to be reincarnated as a travel writer…

One thing that surprises a lot of people about Ethiopia is the fact that the country is predominantly Christian, and has been for over a thousand years (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethiopia#Religion). It is surrounded on three sides by Muslim majority countries (Somalia, Sudan, Djibouti), but Ethiopia has a long and rich tradition of Christianity. The Ethiopian Orthodox church forms a large part of many people's lives, so much so that Wednesday and Friday are observed as fasting days every week. As you drive around the city, whenever you pass a church you're guaranteed to see a crowd of people by the gate, and more inside, praying to the patron saint of the church.

"Fasting" in Ethiopia is a little different than in other places. It doesn't mean necessarily eating less (although some do), but instead eschewing all meat and dairy products for the day. I benefit from this purely from a dietary standpoint, as I have had the hardest time explaining that I don't eat much meat to people I meet here. As with most cultures, Ethiopians eat as much meat as they can afford. The best way that I've found to ensure that I don't get any unexpected meat sneaking into my meals is to tell my host/waiter that I'm fasting. That will ensure a totally vegan meal (and delicious too!). I think when I was younger my family thought I was a really devout child, but now they've realized that I just prefer "fasting food" :).

Addis is a very interesting intersection between the traditional and the new, a rapidly modernizing city that retains a lot of the culture of Ethiopia. I've noticed this with the jockeying of SUVs and sheep, the races between motorized and horse-drawn carriages. I think I notice it most, though, in the clothes that I see people wearing. You'll see everything from a suit and tie to full traditional dress within one block, and neither will raise an eyebrow.



These women are all wearing the traditional white scarf/shawl that used to be paired with a full-length white dress, made of linen. The shawl is the only remaining piece of the outfit, as most people now reserve the linen dresses for special occasions.

Another thing I've noticed more on this trip is the number of cars and trucks that spew out suffocating, black smoke. The air in Addis is not extremely polluted, but if you're stuck behind a truck like this one, it can seem like it is.


It's really sad to see such a beautiful landscape being obscured by thick clouds of exhaust, and I hope that people begin to work for the type of changes that have taken place in India (using CNG for taxis and some trucks). It's definitely hard to agitate for change when lots of initiatives need resources here, but then again, those who are driving trucks around can probably afford the cost of repairs more than the pedestrians can afford to pay the doctor's bills for lung problems.



On a happier note, I love the fruit stands here. They are heaped with fruit, and seem to have been lovingly arranged more as artwork than as a store, with an eye to demonstrating how sweet and succulent each piece is. Makes my mouth water just thinking about it! This stand happens to sell soccer balls as well...

Transportation here comes in a variety of flavors, but by far the most common is the minibus. They go all over the city, and have set routes. Each minibus has a driver and a conductor, whose role is to lean his entire body out the window or door and shout the destination of the bus. There are no signs, but somehow people know where to wait, which bus is the right one, and where to get off.



Continuing with the city tour, there is construction going on everywhere you look, and roadwork around every corner. The city is gearing up for the Ethiopian millenium, which takes place this September. The reason that the millenium is this year is that Ethiopia follows the Julian calendar, while the US and elsewhere use the Gregorian calendar. I won't do the entire history of this justice, but suffice it to say that this year is 1999, and the turn of the millenium happens on September 11th (a strange coincidence, but the date of the New Year changes every year because of the difference between the Julian and Gregorian calendars...).




One final anecdote, I went with my aunt and uncle to Debre Zeyit yesterday, which is a town about 45 km outside of Addis Ababa. They had some business to conduct, and I spend a leisurely hour sitting at a cafe reading a book for the first time in months. Afterwards, we headed to the Kuriftu resort, which is located on a beautiful lake and surrounded by farmland, for lunch. The food was great, and the buildings were beautiful, with thatched roofs and mosaic walls. The place definitely caters to a wealthier crowd, with the price of a room at $120 a night (a huge amount for most people here), but for lunch and some ambiance, it was quite nice.

Coming to Ethiopia was about family and relaxation this time around. On previous trips, I've spent almost as much time outside of Addis as I have in the city, traveling to historical sites and spending time at the lakes near the city. However, this time, I resolved to try to stay around, see family, and recuperate from the last couple of crazy months. I've gotten to spend a lot of time with my aunts and uncles and have seen my grandmother twice already, so mission partially accomplished. Now, if I could just do that resting thing I've been trying to do...

I actually envy my grandmother for her boundless energy. She's in her mid-eighties, and is still running around, being the general of the little army that lives at her house. She directs the cooking, cleaning, schooling, nurturing and activities of several family and adopted family members, takes care of various grandchildren in the summer, and can still throw down on the dance floor! About the only flaw I've found so far is that she LOVES George W. You'll have to forgive her: she speaks no English at all, and is firmly convinced that Dubya is the only reason that the US has a democracy. No matter how many times we've tried to explain that he's not the reason for, but instead is trying to erode, democracy, she's a staunch supporter. I guess the silver lining is that as an Ethiopian citizen she can't vote for him :)



My general-grandmother, amazingly sitting still for a picture



Brian, me, and grandma



Isn't my cousin cute! We had never met before this trip, but she greeted me by launching herself up into my arms, and wrapping herself around me. I guess she's seen a picture or two :)

I finally arrived in Addis, a little tired, but no worse the wear for my 72 hour stint of traveling. Brian, my aunt Akale, my uncle Fisseha and my aunt Eleni were all at the airport to greet me, and take lots of pictures. Since the last time I was in Addis, they've built a huge new international terminal at the airport, which made arriving much smoother than I remember.


Brian assured me I looked great after 72 hours of traveling...

The day after I arrived, Brian and I hopped on another plane to Bahir Dar, the home of Lake Tana and the source of the Nile River. Because Brian only has 4 days in Ethiopia before he heads to South Africa, we decided to only go on one excursion outside of Addis Ababa. Bahir Dar won, because it has both historical sites and the naturalist appeal of the Nile falls.

The scenery there was amazing, we saw some incredibly old books at monasteries that were in the middle of Lake Tana, and the hike up to the Nile falls was breathtaking. Our tour guide wasn't the greatest, but then again, we both would have been up a creek without someone there to help us communicate, so we appreciated him being around. This was my second trip to Bahir Dar, and I enjoyed it even more than the first, which is a good trajectory :)


The path towards the falls



This is the falls at 15% strength. Just imagine 50% or 100%... The falls are diverted to a hydroelectric power plant, which generates 100 mW of energy for the northern areas of Ethiopia. The unfortunate side effect of this is that the flow of the falls is reduced when the plant is running. Our guide told us that the plan is to build additional power plants on less touristed rivers, so that this one can eventually run only at night, and people can enjoy the beauty of the falls by day. We also learned that Ethiopia is becoming a net exporter of power to other countries like the Sudan and Djibouti, because it is so rich in river resources. It's pretty ironic, isn't it, that so many people around the world imagine Ethiopia to be a dry, desert-covered country, when in reality it is so green and fertile?



Brian told me I should stand on a rock so I could look taller... Unfortunately, it's still pretty clear that I'm height-challenged when compared to him.

Oh, the travails of travel. I guess I shouldn't complain, because I have traveled for years with very few incidents, and am lucky enough to be headed to somewhere far enough away to require several flights. I'm on my way to Ethiopia, finally, after a cancelled flight from New York to D.C. left me stranded and unable to catch my flight from D.C. to Addis. Looking on the bright side, though, I got to spend a night in New York with one of my best friends (thanks for lending me your spare bed Abby!). And, after a day of delay, I'm on my way to meet Brian in Ethiopia. He was so excited about this trip, I'm almost more disappointed that I'll be losing a day of tour-guiding him. I can't wait to experience the country through the fresh eyes of a friend who enjoys life as much as Brian does. Hold on, Bri, I'm on my way!

The weekend of the Fair was incredible. I didn't take a single picture (sorry guys), but the moments were unforgettable, even with my terrible memory. I can't believe that I have to leave this corner of paradise and head back into the world of planes, trains and automobiles. Even though I'm excited about the rest of my summer, right now my emotions are leaning more towards melancholy, as the reality of a year before I can come back sets in.

I've never felt such a sense of family at the Fair as I did this year. It was my first time working during the month before the Fair, but I know that this has to be a part of my life from now on. To my Fair family: I miss you all already, and I can't wait to see you again. Have a great year, and I'll see you in June.

Also while at the Fair, I had a chance to go up in a little 4-person plane with our resident pilot, Cliff, along with Dru and Windy (fabulous campmates extraordinaire). We were the "take it easy on us" flight crew, since Dru gets airsick, I sometimes do, and Windy wasn't really into the idea of zero gravity. Cliff was very accommodating, and we all trundled off to the grass airstrip, about 10 minutes away from the fairgrounds.


Our pilot, Cliff


The fabulous flight crew.

We were pretty gung-ho at the beginning. I got to sit in front, which meant that I would also get to fly the plane for 5 seconds-a couple minutes, depending on how well I flew.



Dru and Windy were doing well in the back, until about halfway through the flight, when Dru started to get sick. Panic ensued as Windy and I tried to get her an airsick bag in time. They happened to be disguised as little blue envelopes, so we almost didn't make it before Dru yakked. I wasn't feeling so hot myself, so we asked Cliff to land the plane (with a slight tone of desperation).

All in all, a very cool experience, I got to fly for about 3 or 4 minutes, which was awesome. I did ask Cliff to take control of the plane back several times during those minutes, as I was totally terrified the whole time, but the important thing is that I didn't crash the plane :)


I'm flying!

As you can imagine, internet access while camping is rather scarce. That is, unless you're camping at the Fair, where there is wireless access in the campgrounds! I didn't know this ahead of time, and so left my computer at home, but it's actually been really nice to be away from email, websites, and computers in general. I had forgotten that I actually know how to live without a computer within 20 feet of where I am at all times. It's pretty refreshing...

The Fair is coming up next weekend, but this weekend the Pre-Fair crew had a Disco-Drag party. It's exactly what it sounds like, but I've never seen a group of people with such enthusiasm for dressing up and getting wild before. I love it. The pictures really say it all I think...


Having chest hair was actually pretty interesting, especially since I didn't realize I still had a bunch that didn't come off in the initial washing, and stayed around till the next afternoon



Dru was the biggest player there, all the "ladies" loved her!



Dru and Brian, gettin' down



The lovely ladies of construction and site crew.



Didn't I say that Dru was popular with the ladies?



Chris is overjoyed to be getting Matt's attention... incidentally, I think Matt looks better in my skirt than I do.



Gaby, the casanova



Show us your elephant, Eric!