Jul 27, 2007

Addis is a very interesting intersection between the traditional and the new, a rapidly modernizing city that retains a lot of the culture of Ethiopia. I've noticed this with the jockeying of SUVs and sheep, the races between motorized and horse-drawn carriages. I think I notice it most, though, in the clothes that I see people wearing. You'll see everything from a suit and tie to full traditional dress within one block, and neither will raise an eyebrow.



These women are all wearing the traditional white scarf/shawl that used to be paired with a full-length white dress, made of linen. The shawl is the only remaining piece of the outfit, as most people now reserve the linen dresses for special occasions.

Another thing I've noticed more on this trip is the number of cars and trucks that spew out suffocating, black smoke. The air in Addis is not extremely polluted, but if you're stuck behind a truck like this one, it can seem like it is.


It's really sad to see such a beautiful landscape being obscured by thick clouds of exhaust, and I hope that people begin to work for the type of changes that have taken place in India (using CNG for taxis and some trucks). It's definitely hard to agitate for change when lots of initiatives need resources here, but then again, those who are driving trucks around can probably afford the cost of repairs more than the pedestrians can afford to pay the doctor's bills for lung problems.



On a happier note, I love the fruit stands here. They are heaped with fruit, and seem to have been lovingly arranged more as artwork than as a store, with an eye to demonstrating how sweet and succulent each piece is. Makes my mouth water just thinking about it! This stand happens to sell soccer balls as well...

Transportation here comes in a variety of flavors, but by far the most common is the minibus. They go all over the city, and have set routes. Each minibus has a driver and a conductor, whose role is to lean his entire body out the window or door and shout the destination of the bus. There are no signs, but somehow people know where to wait, which bus is the right one, and where to get off.



Continuing with the city tour, there is construction going on everywhere you look, and roadwork around every corner. The city is gearing up for the Ethiopian millenium, which takes place this September. The reason that the millenium is this year is that Ethiopia follows the Julian calendar, while the US and elsewhere use the Gregorian calendar. I won't do the entire history of this justice, but suffice it to say that this year is 1999, and the turn of the millenium happens on September 11th (a strange coincidence, but the date of the New Year changes every year because of the difference between the Julian and Gregorian calendars...).




One final anecdote, I went with my aunt and uncle to Debre Zeyit yesterday, which is a town about 45 km outside of Addis Ababa. They had some business to conduct, and I spend a leisurely hour sitting at a cafe reading a book for the first time in months. Afterwards, we headed to the Kuriftu resort, which is located on a beautiful lake and surrounded by farmland, for lunch. The food was great, and the buildings were beautiful, with thatched roofs and mosaic walls. The place definitely caters to a wealthier crowd, with the price of a room at $120 a night (a huge amount for most people here), but for lunch and some ambiance, it was quite nice.

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